To Bolivia

Finally leaving cusco (with the second biggest party of my trip so far), we bussed to Puno, by Lago Titicaca. Supposedly the highest navegable lake in the world, but I guess that could be just a big fat lie as well! Anyway, with 3800 meters it´s high enough to make this kid lose her breath. Strikes and roadblocks have been messing Peru´s normally amazingly reliable transport system, so we had to leave Cusco early to get to Puno at 3 AM. Dodgy hostels all over so no real problems. The day after we left for las islas flotantes, the floating islands. The floating islands are made out of reef and are truly amazing. It´s a bit of a tourist attraction but it didn´t really bother us as the people on these islands are just so funny.

Besides, we decided to spend a night on one of these islands which for some reason nobody seems to do. Well, the cold temperatures might be a reason but nothing that 10 heavy blankets won´t solve! It´s an experience sleeping on nothing but reed, including cabaña and beds. In the morning one of the islanders gave us a rowing boat to go and explore. Traditional boat, including the very heavy paddles which meant crappy rowing, getting nowhere and having all the islanders make fun of us.

From Puno we crossed the border to Bolivia. Funny story! I got my passport stamped, saying 90 dias, very nice as it should be! My fellow traveler, a Canadian, got a stamp saying 30 dias... I asked for some explanation, but the only decent thing we got from them was something about no authorisation to give 90 days (bullshit offcourse, if ayone will have authorisation it´s border police and I just got 90 days) and the fact that they were thirsty and wanted a coke. Well, there´s a shop next door, I said and so it became clear they wanted us to bribe them. Not even a decent bribe like 100 dollars, no, with a COKE! We couldn´t help laughing and a clear ¨look, we know he is entitled to get 90 days¨ actually solved the case without us buying any soda´s. Without any further issues we got to the city of Copacabana, leading to a weeklong Barry Manilow tribute from our side (remember? copa-copacabaaana, the hottest club north of havana). Things started well in Bolivia as on the day we arrived it was mother´s day in Copacabana and the way they celebrate has nothing to do with children singing songs and bringing breakfast to bed. No, it was a big street party involving lots of very cheap beers and the women were the most drunk as this was their holiday.

The next day we took the boat to Isla del Sol. Unlike most people (once again, no idea what makes all travelers do exactly the same things) we walked from the south part to the northern part of the island. When we got there, we found a beatiful beach, filled with people in traditional outfits and dressed up with masks and other ¨stuff¨ (don´t really know how to describe). Some questioning learned us it was ascension day (hemelvaartsdag). Well, I´d go Catholic again if we would celebrate as they do! A live band, literally all villagers drunk and dancing and talking to us without making any sense.
Very interesting evening except for the fact we couldn´t get any dinner as all restaurant owners were, correct, drinking. In the morning we found the band on the beach again, washing up their instruments in the lake after which the whole thing started over again.

We took the boat back to Copacabana and from there to La Paz. There are no words to describe La Paz. It´s insane and I loved it from the very start. You can probably buy everything on the street in La Paz, there are simply no supermarkets. There is a witches market that sells baby lamas to offer to Pacha Mama (mother earth). Street food is amazing. We forgot about all you-re-not-supposed-to-eat-meat-on-the-street warnings since everything looked so good. Most travelers complain about Bolivian food but between the salteñas, choripanes, good soups, trout by the lake and tons of vegetarian and gringo restaurants, I think I could easily survive a very long time. Even though the locals do stick to fried chicken with rice and french fries on a daily basis.

We hung out for a few days and the took a bus to Rurrenabaque. Well, this is an adventure-bus. It´s supposed to take 18 hours. Our bus left La Paz 2.5 hours late since there was so much cargo to put on the roof, including a kid´s bike, 5 old wooden chairs and tons and tons of clothes. After a few hours, the bus broke down a first time and this would happen a few more times along the way. We sat in the back, on the last row, jsut behind us a very cute kid that couldn´t stop pulling my hair or crumbling cupcakes all over us. It took us 24 hours to get to Rurrenabaque in which I probably slept 30 minutes. Pavement doesn´t exist and the road is more then bumpy. The road is one of the world´s most dangerous, leaving almost but not quite enough room for 2 cars to pass by. Since we were delayed we were doing everything in the dark, the driver manoeuvring us on the side of a cliff to let others pass by. Let´s say we were very glad we survived. What´s in Rurrenabaque? Well, a hell lot of alligators, that is. And piranhas, looots of big big birds, pink dolphins, the cutest monkeys qnd most awful spiders... Bolivia is the Botswana of South-America!

We were hoping to fly back to La Paz but rain interfered. Airport was closed for 5 days so we took our chances, some valium (an over-the-counter-drug in Bolivia) and another bus.

Back in La Paz I decided that 4000 meters of altitude was not realy an achievement so I climbed a 6088 meter high mountain. Quite an achievement for someone who runs out of breath on the hostel´s stairs in La Paz. Three days: first day: How do i climb an ice wall in 1 lesson. First night: waking up with the most terrible headache ever and having to pie outside when it´s freezing. Second day: few hour slowest hike ever up to 5200 meters. Second night: pretend to be sleepy at 6 AM while someone is trying to brak our of your head with a hammer. third day: wake up at 1 AM and start walking up in ice and snow at -15 degrees. Every little step is 10 times as hard at this heighth and climbing ice walls in the dark is as hard as it sounds. When sun came up we could al of a sudden see the top and I realized we might be able to make it! And so we did, even though the last part was about the scariest thing I ever did. Not even enough room to put both feet besides one another which makes the "don´t look down" of my guide kinda ridiculous.
ice climbing and yes, that´s me!

don´t be fooled! it looks just like an edge but itùs actually a path
me at 6088!